Josh and Kt on the summit of Independence Monument celebrating the 100 year anniversary.
Independence Monument via Otto's Route (5.9) - Colorado National Monument, CO
When we arrived in Colorado National Monument we tried to climb Sentinel Spire. To get there we rappelled into the canyon skipping the hike. Eric made a great first lead on the first pitch. Unfortunately, the beta (info about the climb) was terrible. We brought the gear that was listed and none of it worked. Eric leap-froged all the gear having to drop back down to get more gear and then work his way back up to his high-point. At this rate we knew we would not have time to finish both Sentinel and Independence Monument, so we bailed on the route vowing to return.
Rappelling down into the canyon.
Eric Peet pulling through the crux first move on the Sentinel.
The route on Sentinel is called Fast Draw since the first ascentionist had a piton start popping out he took his hammer and hammered it back in saving his life; hence the name Fast Draw
We walked across the canyon to the real prize Independence Monument. Although we didn't hike around to find it, the Deceleration of Independence is inscribed in the sandstone - hence the name. The route is rated around 5.9, which is only possible because of a man name John Otto. Otto was a cowboy who helped create Colorado National Monument. The first ascent of the tower was only made possible by drilling holes and sticking metal poles in to use as hand holds. This technique would be frowned upon these days, but back in 1911, when Otto climbed this route, this was completely radical! No ropes. No harness. Draws? Forget about it. Not only did he climb without a rope, he did it in cowboy boots! Anytime the route felt desperate you could reach up and find a drilled hole, left behind from the poles, and stick two fingers in to regain your position. All we can say is "Thank you Otto."
Independence Monument via Otto's Route - Photo by Dave G.
The sun was going down and there was a crowd ahead of us. We started up. I lead the first pitch by combining Pitch 1 (class 4) and 2 (5.7). This was my second Trad Lead, exciting at that. Even though the grade wasn't hard, if you botched a move it was easy to deck the ground and break an ankle.
Josh on lead pulling through the class 4 terrain.
Eric lead the next pitch (money pitch) with the sweet off width using a hip jam. Unbelievable moves for the grade. Next we unroped and moved through the Time Tunnel. A big tunnel that felt like we were canyoneering. We roped up and Eric lead the next pitch. This short pitch gained us the final platform and lead to the final bit to the top.
Eric leading through the first crux of the climb.
Kt using a hip jam.
Kt's turn. She lead the most exposed pitch and one tri-cam in for about 50 ft to the her first bolt. The angle was not steep but enough to keep you on your hands and feet. The final two moves were about 5.9 and slippery. The sandstone had weathered away the there to stick your feet.
Kt wishing she had a bolt.
Pulling through the final crux.
At the top we enjoyed the beautiful sunset and met some new friends on the climb that graciously drove us to our car so we didn't all have to jumar back up our fixed rope we left at the Sentinel (thanks Kt).
Someone left an army man to honor Otto.
This marked our third Desert Tower and very memorable at that. Thanks Peet for bringing the cams! Lastly thank you John Otto. The climb was established in 1911, 100 years later we celebrated this climb to mark the anniversary.
