Josh and Kt on the summit of the Tallest Sandstone Tower in the Western Hemisphere.
The Titan. Photo by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
The Titan via Finger of Fate - 5.8 C2+
- 1 of the 50 classic climbs of America
- The tallest freestanding sandstone tower in the western hemisphere
- Everest has a higher success rate at reaching the summit
Here is a great video of the Finger filmed by the Smiley Project. At 3:10 you can see the pitch I lead on the crummy bolts.
http://vimeo.com/25268421
Also you can take a look at this video of Speed Flying through the Fishers to get a feel for the size of these beasts.
http://vimeo.com/19670518
The Fisher Towers Area and the La Sal Mountains. The Titan is the tallest in the middle. Photo by Bill Duncan
The Titan. Is one of the most magnificent sandstone towers in the world. Located in southern Utah about 30 mins east of Moab in a place called the Fisher Towers, the Titan being the tallest one. No area in the world can strike as much fear and inspiration as the Fishers.
Some history. The first ascent team was by Layton Kor, Huntley Ingalls and George Hurrley in 1962. The cutler sandstone was thought to be too muddy and crumbly to ever be climbed. Eventually it was discovered under the mud was somewhat solid rock. The first ascent team was featured in a National Geographic. It should be noted that Harvey Carter (famous Desert Rock climber who put up many first ascents of the area) and company had planned on a trip to climb the Finger. In being beaten on the first ascent, Harvey put up a line called Sundevil Chimney on the Titan which has been coined "The best line in the desert." If you care to learn more I suggest buying Steve "Crusher" Bartlett's book called Desert Towers - 100 years of Desert Tower history and some of the most hysterical and inspiring stories you will ever read. Great for anyone wanting to have the coolest coffee table book in the market. Thanks Crusher.
Josh resting with his heavy pack. Castleton Tower in the background.
Kt admiring the corkscrew summit of Ancient Art.
Sundevil Chimney on the Titan, first ascent by Harvey Carter and company.
The Finger of Fate.
The approach of the Titan was about 3 miles but with each of us hauling a 70 lb pack (literally, Kt weighed it when we got home), it took quite a while. Our map to get to the camp site was basically on a back of napkin and surprisingly accurate. Thanks DK! Eventually we came up to the base of the Titan and had to do some sketchy climbing with our big packs on. Sooo, we let Kt go first.
Negotiating the small planks and climbing the loose boulders we eventually gained the ridge to the base of the Titan. Pulling out Tuna packets and enjoying the scenery at perhaps one of the best camping spots in America! No flat hats, permits, away from tourists and surrounded by breath taking towers with Castle Valley and La Sal Mountains in the background we were in Heaven. Our fearless leader Darren "DK" Knezek was finishing setting some safety lines and tacking on carpet to help protect ropes. Ingenious!
Kt lead pitch one clipping into a safety line in case we botched something. Since this was our fourth tower it felt appropriate to use since it was there. Kt made a beautiful lead up pitch one. Chipping away at loose rocks and knocking off boulders, I crouched behind a rock running around avoiding the mud where I can. Two hours later we were complete with the first pitch of the Titan!
Smile for the camera.
Aid climbing can take hours sometimes days on a pitch.
We ran out of light on Day 1, I didn't get a chance to get a feel of the Titan. The next day we started on Pitch 5, 500 feet up the climb, by jugging (hand ascending) the rope. Pitch five consisted of some very airy steps of 5.6 moves (which you can see at the three minute mark on the Smiley link at the top). I clipped into the safety line as well and was very grateful for it. Some of the bolts I clipped into were hand made pins by Layton Kor, one of the first ascentionist, that are over 50 years old!! I could also spin the pins with my hand. I also clipped into fixed Tricams (protection in the rock) that had been around the block. The second Tricam I clipped into was tipped out, very scary for 180 pounder with 50 pounds of gear to be standing on. Our good friend Dave Morrey was there to coach us through the pitch. At the crux (hardest) move I was spent trying to pull through the roof. I couldn't find any piece of gear to that would fit in the slot. I finally asked Mr Morrey for a piece that would fit. The punk wouldn't give it to me until I gave it three more tries. Thanks Dave! After three unsuccessful tries Dave graciously gave me the piece that worked. The final crux on the pitch was to mantle (push up) on top of the roof. It wasn't easy but eventually I pushed my way through. At one point, I asked Dave to give me a helping hand. He dangled a aider (rope ladder) two inches away from where I could reach. Thanks again Dave! Couple hours later, I was done with my 60 feet of climbing.
The view from Pitch 5.
Kt feeling optimistic.
Josh getting ready to climb pitch 5.
Left to right: Cottontail, Echo, and King Fisher
The rest of the day was spent talking to friends waiting for our turn to climb and jug up the ropes. As our good friend Tyson put it, "we hit the elevator button to reach the top of the Titan." Considering George Hurley is credited to being part of the first ascent and his job was to belay, I didn't feel it was tainted in anyway. Desert Towers have no rules in my opinion. Pulling on gear, stepping on toes and "kitty litter" rock is the fun. Night fell on us quick, many began to turn around. Kt and I pushed through. We hit the summit at nightfall and enjoyed the sweet success of the tallest desert tower in the western hemisphere. Getting down tested all our patience. We were all tired and wanted to be down.
The view from the duck (pitch 7).
Camp!
Josh is catching up.
Is this for real?
Kt getting crazy.
Josh thinking small.
Busy day on the Titan.
Josh making the final push.
The next day we packed up. Made a 200 ft rap scraping our packs along the way. Said goodbye to the Fishers and headed home. Amazing experience, thanks for all that helped us in our adventure. Special thanks to DK and Jen for masterminding the whole event. You two are crazy! Dave Morrey and Andrew Downing for coaching us. Dave taught us how to multi pitch 6 months ago, it was great to see him in full circle. And of course, Brett Francis for providing us with virtually ALL the safety gear. Brett you'd the man!
Fun Story: "To have climbed the Titan, even recently, its to have groveled where few have groveled. If, in fact, you measure by its number of ascents (and why not?), the Titan is bigger than Everest. Thousands of climbers have stood atop the Big E, while the number who have estimate (who keeps track?), fewer than 500. For a formation of the Titan's scale and acope to have passed nearly forty years with so few ascents is ironic. Doubly so, since the nearby and lower-caste Castleton Tower is climbed perhaps 500 times a season. Ironic, but understandable the instant you actually lay a hand on the Titan's ancient flanks. Then, you realize that the fluted and phantomy rock is among God's greatest-and laziest-handiwork." - Duane Raleigh, The Wasteland excerpt from Desert Towers.
Josh Looking snazy on the climb.
